Happy Three Years, Peace Corps

World Cup fever has descended upon Dakar.

Symptoms include:

• Overindulgence in beverages as they don't require you to look down to consume them.
• Under indulgence in eating as you may often forget to eat dinner as the matches leave you only approximately 45 minutes between them. And that "half time" in soccer is really just a time-out so God help you if you want to try and find something to stuff in your face in those 4 minutes between the first and second half.
• Your throat will become hoarse either from yelling at the referee for being card happy or blind depending on the night/team. Your scratchy esophagus will be exacerbated by screaming at the person across the table asking if they can see how much time is left or asking if that really was a yellow card and/or does anyone have to go to referee school?!

All in all, World Cup fever leads to long hours, light wallets and the need to do a detox soon. Also, it leads to forgetfulness. Which is why, Peace Corps Senegal, I wanted to apologize.

With all this soccer mayhem I completely forgot our anniversary. I am so sorry I didn't make mention of it last week. I promise these three years have been truly wonderful and if Brazil hadn't promised an interesting opener and that USA-Ghana game hadn't kept me up so late, I am sure I would have let you know how much I appreciate you with a lovely Facebook post or a #tbt on instagram with photos from our stage one year parties, I certainly would have waxed nostalgic on this blog about how much you have taught me these past three years and helped me become a better woman.

However,  the Italy-Costa Rica game starts in just over an hour and I can't make dinner plans with you because France plays at 7 pm, but maybe next week? After group play is over?

We should catch up over lunch.

Home Sweet Home in Kolda

Yaaye & I at the family compound

People don't say no in Senegal. A no comes in the form of "let me check into that" or "God willing" or "soon, soon" but never flat refusal. This can be extremely frustrating most of the time when trying to get a project off the ground or complete a planning for a training, but occasionally I use the vague acquiescence too.

Since moving to Dakar I have deployed a wave of "soon, soon" as people often ask when I was planning my next visit to Kolda. I finally got to follow through on my promise to see people this May. The project I am working was running a training of trainers in Kolda and I was invited to present on record keeping tools. The only thing left to do was figure out how to get on down there.

Kolda has always been hard to get to from Dakar as it is South of the Gambia, which would mean two border stops. Then there is the closeness to the region of Ziguinchor where there is a history of civil unrest and therefore road blocks are up starting at 7pm. Then there is the fact that there are no bridges on the major roads in Gambia and so the only way across is by boat, and if the ferry breaks down or there are a long line of cars waiting... Well, let's just say you need to find some shade and a cool drink cause you'll be a while. In order to try and make the trip in one day as painless as possible I opted to go through the Gambia and break the trip up into steps so I could make it in one day.

Sunday morning, I was up and out the door before the sun had even peaked over the horizon. Balancing a hot plastic cup of local spiced coffee in one hand and my bag in the other, I negotiated with a taxi to the garage (car 1). Once at the garage I tried to explain that I didn't want to get in a direct car to Kolda that yes, I was planning on taking separate cars so finally, I was led to a car going to Kaolack (car 2) then changed from the transport hub for the north (garage Dakar) to the other hub serving the south (garage Nioro) by taxi (car 3). Then negotiated a ride to the Gambian border (car 4). The car took me almost to the border to a small transport hub filled with Gambian taxis. I hopped in one of these bright green and yellow autos (car 5), got my passport stamped at the border and arrived at the ferry at high noon. Once by the river I had grabbed an iced juice snack to keep me cool on the boat ride over, which is short but lacking in shade. Once on the other side I had to pay the pass for each seat in a taxi going to the Southern border (car 6) on the Kolda side as I seemed to be the only one heading that way. After going through another set of immigration stamps, I jumped in a car from that border to the junction in Sedhiou (car 7) and finally, after another iced juice snack, got into a car from the junction in Sedhiou to Kolda (car 8).  12 hours and 8 different cars later, I arrived dusty and hot in the 107 degree evening heat, home to Kolda.

Home sweet home was never more true for me then the week I spent in Kolda. Every evening was full of food and family and friends, sitting out under the stars, thankful for cool breezes while we chatted about local gossip, my work in Dakar, what were the plans for Ramadan. The dust was well worth the opportunity to sit with my grandma and watch the neighborhood move past the compound gate, calling out greetings to neighbors and discussing anything from womanly behavior to who was to blame for all the pigs in Kolda.

Hoping to go back. Soon.

Happy 238th birthday!

Happy Birthday, United States Marine Corps!

Saturday night the marines hosted a ball to celebrate the 238th birthday of the United States Marine Corps. The champagne flowed, the dance floor was bumping and despite all that, I only tripped in my fancy high heels once.

The marines in Dakar are surely the few and the proud as Senegal has only 5 young men stationed here at the embassy. They still manage to throw a beautiful ball every year to celebrate the Corps birthday and who better to help them celebrate than a couple of Peace Corps volunteers.

How did I manage such an invite? Well, fellow Koldoise Whitney is Dakar's unofficial social chair (I am starting her campaign soon to make the position official, with business cards and a lunch-ing stipend). She is also serving her third year in Dakar working on the third goal of cultural exchange with Americans, meaning she has helped expats feel more comfortable getting out of the Dakar bubble to explore all that Senegal has to offer. This has led to a great network for Peace Corps volunteers that includes many people in the embassy as well as the marines. Since the boys in dress blues were without dates for the big night Whitney organized a few of us new Dakaroise to be +1.

The evening began early in the day with hair and make-up before we slipped on heels on to our very well scrubbed feet. Then it was off to the embassy!

After taking photos next to flags, we joined the other 200 expat guests during a cocktail hour. I have never felt quite so lovely as I did sipping champagne in a pretty dress (thank you to Whitney's mom for sending it). We also finally got to catch up with our slightly stressed dates, who had been working all day cleaning and setting up for the party - they claimed to have scrubbed the floor with toothbrushes, I'm hesitant to buy it. The party people were gently herded from the bar up to the embassy's cafeteria which had been transformed into a true ballroom. We refilled our champagne flutes before settling into watch the opening ceremony where the Marines and ambassador present the colors, a member of the corps reads the order that established the celebrating of the founding of the Marine Corps, a video montage and a ceremonial cutting of the ceremonial birthday cake - with a ceremonial saber, of course.

After the pomp and circumstance, the marines could finally sit down and enjoy the evening. They are all fine gentlemen. Prime example was when my date didn't complain at all when I blatantly asked if I could finish off his dessert - he was eating it slowly and I was concerned it was going to waste. You don't waste chocolate cake, dude. After dinner, dancing quickly began. I had the good fortune to be dancing with a marine who had skills and didn't mind my occasional back leading or high heels stabbing him in the foot.

Thank you to the USMC stationed here in Dakar for a fine evening and to all marines for your service. Here's to your health.

MARINE CORPS ORDERS
No. 47 (Series 1921)
HEADQUARTERS U.S. MARINE CORPS
Washington, November 1, 1921
759. The following will be read to the command on the 10th of November, 1921, and hereafter on the 10th of November of every year. Should the order not be received by the 10th of November, 1921, it will be read upon receipt.

1. On November 10, 1775, a Corps of Marines was created by a resolution of Continental Congress. Since that date many thousand men have borne the name "Marine". In memory of them it is fitting that we who are Marines should commemorate the birthday of our corps by calling to mind the glories of its long and illustrious history.
2. The record of our corps is one which will bear comparison with that of the most famous military organizations in the world's history. During 90 of the 146 years of its existence the Marine Corps has been in action against the Nation's foes. From the Battle of Trenton to the Argonne, Marines have won foremost honors in war, and in the long eras of tranquility at home, generation after generation of Marines have grown gray in war in both hemispheres and in every corner of the seven seas, that our country and its citizens might enjoy peace and security.
3. In every battle and skirmish since the birth of our corps, Marines have acquitted themselves with the greatest distinction, winning new honors on each occasion until the term "Marine" has come to signify all that is highest in military efficiency and soldierly virtue.
4. This high name of distinction and soldierly repute we who are Marines today have received from those who preceded us in the corps. With it we have also received from them the eternal spirit which has animated our corps from generation to generation and has been the distinguishing mark of the Marines in every age. So long as that spirit continues to flourish Marines will be found equal to every emergency in the future as they have been in the past, and the men of our Nation will regard us as worthy successors to the long line of illustrious men who have served as "Soldiers of the Sea" since the founding of the Corps.

Back to Kolda

The newest group of Agricultural and Community Economic Development soon-to-be volunteers have been in Senegal for about one month now. This past weekend they all got to get a taste of volunteer life during "Volunteer Visits" (VV) throughout Senegal. VV is a few days where new trainees shadow current PCVs,  often the ones whom they will be replacing, to learn more about the work and the region they will be in for the next two years.

As my Kolda Business replacement isn't here yet, I wanted to meet the new Urban Ag volunteer in Kolda in case he was interested in any cashew projects or meeting up with my contacts. Also, the visit means I got to catch a ride all the way down south to Kolda for a long weekend back 'home'.

We arrived late Thursday night after dropping the new aggies and their bikes along the rode into Kolda. I had tried my host mom's cell phone a few times to let her know I'd be in town but I hadn't gotten a hold of her. So I showed up at my house on Friday morning to find the door locked and no one home. As she usually goes to the market in the morning, my grandma goes to greet and my little brother has school, I wasn't too worried to find no-one around, so I biked off to greet some other people. I rolled back in around noon to find that my family was still not back. Finally, feeling a bit like a lost little child, I went around asking my neighbors "have you seen my mom?!" Turns out a family member I had never met (since her husband's house is in Thies, she's rarely back home in Kolda) had just gotten back from pilgrimage to Mecca, which of course means PARTY.

I roll up to my aunt's house to find meat sauce pasta already made and fancy rice being cooked. After shaking hands with all my extended family members and my host mom herself, I got a plate of food and sat under the mango tree making small talk with my cousins. After catching up on gossip and asking my favorite cousin all those awkward questions like "remind me who that is..." lunch round 2 showed up, along with some cold sodas. After everyone had eaten, the returnee sat us all around in a circle where we prayed and shared stories, encouraging her to use her time after pilgrimage well.

Saturday was a fun day complete with friends and counterpart visits, tying up some loose ends with an artisans in the embassy project. Then Sunday Funday was the final farewell to Kolda. I spent most of the morning at my best friend's house, helping her and her sisters get ready for a neighbor's wedding then gossiping under the mango trees with my favorite cousin and her friends while they did laundry. These moments are what I most fondly remember about Kolda, being part of those daily moments. I had a great last meal at my family's house, with a surprise arrival of one my Dakar host brothers - perfect timing too as he is the best tea maker in our family. After our goodbyes, I headed up to the Kolda Volunteer Regional house for dinner and drinks to celebrate our new arrivals. Then it was an early morning and long 18 hours back to Dakar.

The trip was a good time for me to realize that while Kolda will always feel like home, I can never come back in the same context as a PCV in Kolda but I will always have a place to share some laughs and eat good rice down south.

Eid Mubarak! Happy Feasting!

Happy feast day to everyone celebrating Eid Al-Adha! Today (or tomorrow in Senegal), we're celebrating the willingness of the prophet Abraham to sacrifice his son. This means families kill a sheep, grill up some meat, greet friends and family asking for forgiveness, giving forgiveness and offering blessings. It also usually means fancy new clothes but as I didn't have time nor funds to do so, so I'm dusting off my outfit from last year.

Due to the amazing hospitality of Senegal I have been invited to several houses to pass the holiday, but I'm spending it with family - my host siblings in Dakar will be roasting up sheep tomorrow. Its lovely to spend holidays with family and friends. Although as I am not in Kolda, I'm going to rack up a phone bill making phone calls wishing people a happy tabaski tomorrow.